Render update proposal field for Shelley-Babbage eras
Now that the friendly renderer covers Shelley through Babbage, those tx bodies' update field is no longer just noise — it carries real governance state (a ProposedPPUpdates map keyed by genesis-key hash and an EpochNo). Render it directly from the ledger TxBody via `updateTxBodyL`. Conway replaced update proposals with the new governance system, so the field is absent (not null) in Conway+. Adds `updateProposalPairFor` and `renderUpdate` helpers; the per-era PParamsUpdate is rendered via its ledger ToJSON instance.